Files for 3D printing an arcade stick.
Have you ever wanted to conjure your own arcade stick out of the ether (well, plastic), or to prototype a new layout or design before sending it to a custom builder? Do you just love having your space filled with arcade stick enclosures, because you keep making different variants, colorways, and so on? Or do you simply want a good stick on the cheap, and know someone or a library with a 3D printer? The Buildable Stick System may be the project for you!
[OpenSCAD-based illustration of how the components for an overhang panel-based stick fit together.]
[Photo of a completed inset panel-based stick.]
Originally an attempt to make a couple customized STL files for the OpenStickCommunity Fightstick Case, the changes ballooned to fit my design and became incompatible with that project's components. This should be considered a different project with some similar DNA, but to stress again, it could not have been done without that project as a guide star. See Attribution.
No particular arcade stick design is prescribed by this project, instead, SCAD files are provided to choose desired component objects or create new ones. The OpenSCAD language is essentially a functional programming language, making it it easy to reuse, alter, and compose objects. If you do not see the object you would like, you can likely create it by starting with an existing object and constructing what you'd like with new or existing components.
There are a lot of parts to pick from, but there are some structural variants to pay attention to; here's some help about when/how to use specific parts:
panel-inset--- these fit flush into a frame, creating a closed box enclosure.panel-overhang--- these have a tray that fits into a frame with the actual face extending beyond the frame, creating an ice cream sandwich enclosure.- These also yield a bit more space inside the box, for tall levers or whatever.
frame(non-pieces) --- these create the box of the enclosure, as one part. These can be hard to print well --- shrinkage forces tend to curl up the corners no matter what you do, and some points need supports --- but if you don't care about that because you're printing an ice cream sandwich, they are simpler than...frame-piece--- these break up the frame box into four faces, and are held together by friction fit and the hex bolts. This is more stable than you might expect, but it does introduce some variability in the overall sturdiness of the enclosure compared with the frame as one box piece.- The
interconnectreplaces the need to bolt multiple frames together.
- The
These items all fit on a 256mm^2 print bed; I use a Bambu Lab P1P based on what I've learned from the OpenStickCommunity. Standard settings seem sufficiently sturdy for my purposes, though the slicer has done a couple weird things, in my experience.
My preferred settings are 3 wall loops with 20% gyroid sparse infill. This gives the models a bit more weight and stability, but something like 2 wall loops, 15% grid sparse infill is fine and does not lead to a weak enclosure. The costs below have been made against my settings.
What you'll need beyond these objects:
- An arcade stick board (I recommend TheTrain's RP2040 Advanced Breakout
Board)
- 4 M3 8mm hex bolts to secure the PCB to a panel
- Per frame and plate combo:
- 4 45mm M4 hex brass standoffs (or equivalent)
- 8 M4 countersunk hex bolts
- Overhang plates should use 12-16mm length bolts since they are taller
- Inset plates should probably use 8-12mm bolts --- some standoffs aren't threaded the whole way, making 16mm too long to go flush
- If making the 45mm standoffs from multiple smaller ones, make sure they have enough length to take your bolts!
- Per frame connection point:
- 8 16mm M4 bolts
- 8 M4 flange nuts
- For a lever:
- 4 12-16mm M4 countersunk hex bolts
- 4 M4 flange nuts
- For Neutrik D connections:
- 2 10mm M3 hex bolts
- 2 M3 flange nuts
- Buttons and levers as desired
- Wiring as required
This is a rough estimate of the cost to produce one of these sticks, assuming a usual 2-frame design and layout. Filament masses from Bambu Studio estimates, using Bambu PLA Basic.
- Left and right frame: $10.42 USD (208.50g each, as of 2024-02-22)
- Left and right (inset) top panels: ~$6.40 USD (~128g each, as of 2024-02-22)
- Left and right (non-overhang) bottom panels: $6.80 USD (135.99g each, as of 2024-02-22)
- Miscellaneous mounting plates, decorative plates, etc.: ~$1.83 USD (~73g, as of 2024-02-22)
- 8 16mm M4 bolts to connect the frames: $0.72 USD (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $9, as of 2023-09-12)
- These are only necessary if you are using the whole frames, but as a heads up, the material cost of the pieces-based interconnect piece costs around $1, so it's roughly a wash since that's also a frame wall.
- 8 M4 flange nuts to connect the frames: $0.68 USD (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $8.50, as of 2023-09-12)
- 4 10mm M3 bolts to connect Neutrik D plates to frames: $0.40 USD (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $10, as of 2023-09-12)
- 4 M3 flange nuts to connect Neutrik D plates to frames: $0.34 USD (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $8.50, as of 2023-09-12)
- 8 45mm M4 standoffs to connect panels to frames: $2.40 USD (you can get a pack of 10 on AliExpress for $3, as of
2023-09-12)
- You could 3D print these too, but you're probably better off with brass ones as they give some weight to the stick anyway
- You can also use a shorter length with longer bolts, or combine multiple standoffs, if either of those yield better prices
- 8 16mm M4 bolts to connect top plates to frames: $0.72 USD (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $9, as of
- 8 12mm M4 bolts to connect bottom plates to frames: $0.72 USD (you can get a pack of 100 on Amazon for $9, as of 2023-09-12)
With an enclosure coming in around $31, depending on your choices --- say, ~$30 for TheTrain's RP2040 Advanced Breakout Board, ~$60 for Sanwa buttons and a lever, and ~$20 for miscellaneous connectors and wiring --- you can put a full-featured controller with an open source foundation together for around $140. Reducing wall and infill settings will probably save you around $5 of material, and you can probably decide what you want to do from there.
See the /docs/ directory for more thoughts too scattered for this document.
This is a living repository, and as such, there are likely issues with the objects, known or otherwise.
These issues may be fixed in the future; see TODO.md for details.
Improvements, variants, new layouts, novel ideas, and etc. are all welcome.
These files are suitable for previewing and rendering in OpenSCAD. They may also work in FreeCAD and perhaps other software, but they are developed in OpenSCAD, so YMMV otherwise.
This project is hosted at my personal Git site, but people are more likely to want to interact with the GitHub mirror. Feel free to use either.
I'm reachable on the fediverse, over email, or on Discord, but if you're looking for an option I prefer, I maintain an
IRC channel, #buildable-stick-system, on my IRC network, Randomus if you would like a place
to hang out and discuss issues and features and whatnot.
Inspired by the incredible work of TheTrain on the OpenStickCommunity Fightstick Case, itself based on the incredible work by Dash n'Mash. Original work Copyright 2023 TheTrain, licensed under CC BY 4.0.
Made possible by the amazing efforts of slagcoin.
Written by and copyright Brian S. Stephan ([email protected]).
The Buildable Stick System is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or (at your option) any later version.
The Buildable Stick System is distributed in the hope that it will be useful, but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the GNU General Public License for more details.
You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License along with the Buildable Stick System. If not, see https://www.gnu.org/licenses/.