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Update v1.2_build_guide.md
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galile0-designs authored Nov 18, 2023
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Expand Up @@ -23,7 +23,7 @@ All of the case parts are printed in PLA and the plate is printed in PETG. Every
The controller of v1 glyph, the pico clone, is held in place on inside of the foot by a small 3d printed clip. In order for this clip to be durable, it has to be printed in the flat orientation, separately. Let's attach it to the foot now:
![clip_welded](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/145010a3-818c-457e-8487-431ef72066fd)

Align the center divit with the connector hole on the foot, and weld it into place with your 3D pen (or soldering iron, if you must).
Align the center divit of the clip with the USB C hole on the foot, and weld it into place with your 3D pen (or soldering iron, if you must).

## step 2
One of the unique design choices that I made with this keyboard design was to split the bottom case from the foot. This means that we can use this more interesting and proper-looking foot design, we have a nice smooth surface on both the bottom case and the bottom of the foot, and we avoid all of the annoying support material we would otherwise need. This is in my opinion more than worth the small trade-off of having to weld them together on the inside.
Expand Down Expand Up @@ -52,3 +52,8 @@ The next step is to solder the diodes, and solder them into rows.
Then the columns. I like to use some rainbow ribbon cable here, it looks dope and helps me keep track of the order when soldering to the controller.
![columns_completed](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/2098b3f1-3834-492f-930a-3c55f0d0364f)



Now to wire the board up to the Pico. Using KMK firmware makes it ridiculously easy to change the pinout, but the standard pinout is as follows:
Columns, in order left to right: GPIO1, GPIO2, GPIO3, GPIO4, GPIO5, GPIO6, GPIO7, GPIO8, GPIO9, GPIO10, GPIO20, GPIO21, GPIO22, GPIO23, GPIO24, GPIO25,
Rows, top to bottom: GPIO13, GPIO14, GPIO15, GPIO26, GPIO27

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