Update v1.2_build_guide.md

v1.2/v1.2_build_guide.md

@@ -21,12 +21,14 @@ All of the case parts are printed in PLA and the plate is printed in PETG. Every
 
 ## step 1
 The controller of v1 glyph, the pico clone, is held in place on inside of the foot by a small 3d printed clip. In order for this clip to be durable, it has to be printed in the flat orientation, separately. Let's attach it to the foot now:
+
 ![clip_welded](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/145010a3-818c-457e-8487-431ef72066fd)
 
 Align the center divit of the clip with the USB C hole on the foot, and weld it into place with your 3D pen (or soldering iron, if you must).
 
 ## step 2
 One of the unique design choices that I made with this keyboard design was to split the bottom case from the foot. This means that we can use this more interesting and proper-looking foot design, we have a nice smooth surface on both the bottom case and the bottom of the foot, and we avoid all of the annoying support material we would otherwise need. This is in my opinion more than worth the small trade-off of having to weld them together on the inside. 
+
 ![foot_welded](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/9783d125-4a1c-4f56-9e96-d13fba07e498)
 
 Use the 3D pen with some loose filament kind of like a MIG welder, extruding molten plastic into the gap. Before you begin, it's best to make sure that the foot and case are aligned properly with an even gap all the way around. When welding, it's best to go slowly and sort of massage the plastic into both sides of the seam, you don't want a cold weld and no pen.
@@ -36,20 +38,25 @@ The glyph v1.2 screws together from bottom to top with some threaded inserts in
 
 ## step 4
 Add rubber feet to the bottom
+
 ![feet_adhered](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/ee4afb14-92ca-4f09-8dff-071942bfa821)
 
 ## step 5 
 Handwiring.
 First, pop all of your switches and your stabilizer into the plate. If you printed the plate with your nozzle a little too close to the bed, you may have to file away the little lip that forms around the circumference of the switch holes before you can pop them in. I've tried enlarging the holes to compensate for this effect, but even 0,1mm leads to switches popping out way too easily. Same goes for the stabilizer. Such is the curse of 3D printing plates...
+
 ![switches_in](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/e5993229-d74c-491e-bea8-0907ad7d95a2)
 
 Next, I like to add hotswap sockets so that I don't have to solder directly onto the switch legs of my precious black inks. This is optional though, if you dont care about them, you can just solder directly onto your switches.
+
 ![sockets_on](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/948ef6f0-7be7-4f35-891c-4a8f7515e28c)
 
 The next step is to solder the diodes, and solder them into rows.
+
 ![rows_completed](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/8e2c2750-43f3-49ba-b4a5-4e6ee692b2f2)
 
 Then the columns. I like to use some rainbow ribbon cable here, it looks dope and helps me keep track of the order when soldering to the controller.
+
 ![columns_completed](https://github.com/galile0-designs/glyphkbd/assets/134774462/2098b3f1-3834-492f-930a-3c55f0d0364f)